Paris Dining Guide Special Edition: L’Ami Jean (and Le Fumoir)

Our Senior Paris Correspondents, Barbara Somson, Ross Eisenbrey and their daughter Becca, recently returned from Paris with a report.  They are frequent visitors to France, and Becca lived there for a while as a student — a year abroad, I think.  And they know food.

They report:

Our most exciting meal was at our old standby favorite, L’Ami Jean, where we had what the chef offered (minus gluten) on the last night before closing for the summer. Here are Becca’s notes (en Francais) from the meal:

Soupe à l’homard – frais- avec pt pois et ognions
Poitrine de cailles avec haricots et piments
Saumon et pois aux bouillon de bonite et citron
“Risotto” à pâte d’avoine avec homards et champignons
Morue cuit à la foure et porc cuit à la japonaise avec jus et carottes
Joues et ris de veau avec champignons
Fromage de brebis et confiture de cerises
Mousse/yaourt, sorbet et fruit de fraises
Ris au lait (et chantilly) avec caramel au beurre salé et crunchies

(Yes:  they each had all of that — except that Barbara skipped the rice pudding, or at least the crunchies.)

Everything was outstanding, in small portions, and well paced. And the pre-holiday atmosphere was quite convivial.

(For those with a command of French even more limited than my own, that translates as:

Chilled lobster soup with peas and onions
Quail breast with beans and peppers
Salmon and peas with bonito broth
A risotto of oatmeal with lobster and mushrooms
Baked cod and pork cooked in the Japanese style with juice and carrots
Veal cheeks and sweetbreads with mushrooms
Sheep’s cheese with cherry jam
Yoghurt mouse, strawberry sorbet
Rice pudding and whipped cream with salted caramel and crunchies)

They also very much enjoyed Le Fumoir, across from the Louvre: lots of locals, small menu but very good food and service in a casual but not too casual setting.  http://lefumoir.com/#restaurant  It looks good, and is reasonably priced: 23 Euros for two courses, 27 Euros for three courses at lunch, and 35/39 at dinner — including tax and tip. They also have a bar and a tea room.

Nancy and I ate at L’Ami Jean once about four or five years ago, after having been frustrated that they were closed on a previous effort.  We had a very good meal.  It was overshadowed on that trip by Le Regalade (the original, out near Port d’Orleans).  But then at L’Ami Jean I had, less wisely, ordered the menu (3 courses), while the guys sitting next to us put themselves in the chef’s hands, and had a meal for the ages.

I think I need to find out L’Ami Jean’s vacation schedule and plan a trip around it.

***

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