L’Étage, Orléans, France and La Cave Ô Délices.Montauban, France

I am back from the beach and sorting through reports from our Senior France Correspondents, Barbara Somson and Ross Eisenbrey as they travel about France, often well in advance of their luggage.  Their first, understandably laconic report was from Orleans: In Orléans, at L’Étage, we had a light supper of (risotto aux écrevisses, pois gourmands et chips de jambon cru accompagné d’un jus de viande, … Continue reading L’Étage, Orléans, France and La Cave Ô Délices.Montauban, France

Fat Fella’s BBQ and Grille, Newport, North Carolina

You’ve heard of Fat Fella’s.  I have noted here in the Blog that it was praised by my late, great Aunt Ann Griffin, as well as by my brother Jim, and by his older son, Jimbo — all of whom I trust with my palate.  Newport, of course, is a pretty long drive from the beach, especially if you have the World’s Greatest Shrimpburger at the … Continue reading Fat Fella’s BBQ and Grille, Newport, North Carolina

The Science of Barbecue

Those  of you who don’t regularly follow Scientific American’s blog may have missed the June 3 post by Ali Bouzari, the author of Ingredient: Unveiling the Essential Elements of Food.   He also is a founder of Render, a food company that seeks to reinvent the way food lovers eat.  They sell some crunchy grain mixtures and beverages with interesting-sounding combinations of fruits, vegetables, herbs, … Continue reading The Science of Barbecue

The World’s Best Shrimpburger, 2019: The Captain’s Kitchen Repeats!

After I’d completed my post-independence Day barbecue wind-down, I headed to the beach to meet Nancy, Liza, Ella, and Lily.  We took two cars to take all of Ella and Lily’s gear (and our own) down.  I had left a day early and eaten at the Hillsborough BBQ Company and the Durham outpost of The Pit.  We connected at the realtor’s office, unpacked, and set … Continue reading The World’s Best Shrimpburger, 2019: The Captain’s Kitchen Repeats!

The Pit, Durham, North Carolina

After my lunch at the Hillsborough BBQ Company, I continued my barbecue ease-down at The Pit in Durham, another Campaign for Real Barbecue-certified place, and my friend Jim Oliver came over to join me.  Jim and I shared an office when I worked in the Criminal Section of the Justice Department’s Civil Rights Division.  He was over in Creedmore helping his Momma, who is 91 … Continue reading The Pit, Durham, North Carolina

Excellent Brisket in DC: An Update

UPDATE Michael Boyd just cooked another brisket and a pork butt for a few dozen New Orleans relatives — a demanding crowd.  The result: a triumph.  Michael has outdone himself again.  The brisket was even more moist and tender than his remarkable Independence Day brisket.  Unsatisfied, Micheal is working out the inherent limitations of the Big Green Egg n building smoke flavor.  Stay tuned, and … Continue reading Excellent Brisket in DC: An Update

Hillsborough BBQ Company, Hillsborough, North Carolina

How do you cure a barbecue hangover, the kind you get when you’ve spent Independence Day cooking about 50 pounds of pork butts over coals and hickory, and eating far more than your share of it (not to mention brisket)?  Why, you use the classic hangover cure: hair of the dog that bit you. That’s how I found myself on July 5, driving down to … Continue reading Hillsborough BBQ Company, Hillsborough, North Carolina

Excellent Brisket Comes to DC, July 4, 2019

As you know, Nancy and I host a big party on Independence Day every year to celebrate the birth of our country.  The centerpiece of the party is the Best Barbecue in the World, made so by cooking pork butts over direct heat on two Weber grills for nine or so hours so that the pork fat drips onto the coals and creates pork fat … Continue reading Excellent Brisket Comes to DC, July 4, 2019