I am back from the beach and sorting through reports from our Senior France Correspondents, Barbara Somson and Ross Eisenbrey as they travel about France, often well in advance of their luggage. Their first, understandably laconic report was from Orleans:
In Orléans, at L’Étage, we had a light supper of (risotto aux écrevisses, pois gourmands et chips de jambon cru accompagné d’un jus de viande, a very creamy risotto with shrimp and assortiment de tomates d’antan servies avec scarmoza (fromage italien au goût fumé) et pesto rouge, a salad of smoked mozzarella and heritage tomatoes, caipirinhas each, and some nice wine for 53€.
[Ed. note: Ross’ phrase, “caipirinhas each” is not entirely clear. Did they each have a caipirinha, or did they each have more than one caipirinha? The lack of clarity suggests the latter, as does the warmth of the setting,
but I’m not one to jump to conclusions. We report, you decide.]
Ross adds, “L’Étage had paintings we’d love to own by the owner’s mother on the walls.” You can see one painting on Ross’ Instagram page.
From Orleans, our correspondents moved south in pursuit of their luggage.
In Montauban, Ross and Barbara went to La Cave Ô Délices on Place Franklin Roosevelt, more or less between the cathedral and the Jardins des Plantes. Hugeunots destroyed the medieval cathedral, and subsequently found themselves destroyed on St. Bartholomew’s Day. The current cathedral rose in the 17th century, and is noteworthy for both for classical style and its huge size.
Barbara had a delicious, tender piece of pork from a local farm with a coriander sauce and asparagus. I had four lamb chops with an eggplant ragoût that was all umami-savory, plus excellent local wine.
The Cave was in a former wine cellar and was quiet and cozy.
La Cave is only a short walk from the Place Nationale and its highly questionable food offerings. Leave the Place and head to La Cave.
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