I’ve mentioned a number of new brisket places in the pork-centric Southeast, such as Lewis Barbecue in Charleston. Indeed, it seems as if all of the new-style places are cooking at least some brisket, which shows the depths to which people will descend for money. Now, the favor is being returned as Texas is getting a chance to learn the joys of whole hog barbecue. They are blessed.
I ate a lot of barbecue in Texas while I was litigating voting rights cases for the Justice Department, and especially during a stint as a Distinguished Visiting Professor at Baylor Law School. (“Distinguished” in this context means “temporary adjunct”: this boy ain’t stayin’ around). I was there for a term, armed with the Texas Monthly “50 Best” issue. Anyway, I quickly learned not to eat pork in Texas. Brisket and sausage are the things to eat there.
It looks like that may be changing. Texas Monthly, which is generally reliable about barbecue, has an article out on the new whole hog places. Here’s an action photo from the article as an amuse bouche.
Read the article for yourself. But for those who think a taste is worth a thousand pictures, here are some places they mention:
Cattleack Barbecue in Dallas,
Banger’s Sausage House and Beer Garden in Austin,
I haven’t tried any of the four. I’d like to, although I have to admit that I’m still chary of pork in Texas. If you do, please let me know how it is.
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