Pruett’s Bar-B-Q, Gadsden, Alabama

I decided to stop for the night in Gadsden on my way from DC to Tuscaloosa. I’d driven for 12 hours, thanks to the I-81 Truckers’ Traffic Obstruction Competition (see here), and it was getting dark, and I remembered that my friend and Gadsden native, Bob McCurley, had spoken highly of Pruett’s. So I checked in at the posh Gadsden Fairfield Inn (very friendly people) and headed to Pruett’s.

Pruett’s sits right off the water of Lake Neely Henry, which meanders through Gadsden. Pruett’s seems to have been around forever, although it “only” opened in 1976. The Pruett family ran restaurants in neighboring Calhoun County, and a sister still runs Betty’s in Anniston. Pruett’s certainly has won the love of Gadsden. When I walked in there was a short wait for a table, and a longer wait for carryout, despite the presence of a Lil’ Pruett’s, an affiliated drive through next door.

Actually, Pruett’s gets off to a strong start even before you enter. Their sign features the most anthropomorphic pig I can recall seeing.

I don’t know how well you can see that. The pig is dressed in cutoff overalls and a straw hat, smoking a pipe, and is strolling along with a fishing pole and a huge just-caught catfish. Once inside there’s a large room with a fireplace at one end

and lots of tables full of customers throughout.

The pig silhouettes above the windows encircled the entire room: pervasive but understated decor.

I ordered the pork plate with turnip greens and Brunswick stew ($9.95). And I plunked down another 85 cents for that big piece of cornbread.

Since it’s a catfish place and I hadn’t had any catfish in ages, I ordered catfish — just a sandwich ($5.25) rather than another platter ($8.50). Moderation in all things. Here’s the sandwich with some catfish exposed:

First the catfish. It was delicious, with a perfect cornmeal crust, the best possible crust of fried fish, tender within, and with a light, clean flavor. I didn’t even think of putting some hot sauce on it. That’s come-back catfish for sure.

But the barbecue is too good for you to go there for catfish alone. Pruett’s offers pork cooked over hickory and cut into rough chunk. My first bite actually startled me with the tenderness and flavor of the pork. That bite was an advertisement for Pruett’s. The sauce was thicker and sweeter than I like personally — I’m a vinegar and pepper guy — but the seasoning was balanced and I can see why people buy bottles to take home.

The corn bread was a hit. It had the crisp outer rim that says cast iron — I don’t know how else you get that — and a hint of butter. This is a classic country corn bread, just what I like.

I liked the turnip greens even more. Turnip greens have so much more flavor than collards, and these were seasoned with meat as all greens should be. Another hit. 

Pruett’s Brunswick stew is thick with pork and vegetables, notably corn and baby limas. Brunswick stew is much richer with pork than with chicken alone, and Pruett’s seasons the stew to bring out the flavors.  I did add some Texas Pete, but that was as much out of habit as need.

That was quite a meal, made all the better by the service. It was a delight. Everyone was Southern-sweet in the best possible way, from the server’s greeting to her chasing me down as I left to make sure I didn’t want some iced tea to take with me. The next time I’m in Gadsden, I definitely will go to Pruett’s for both barbecue and catfish plates. Maybe Nancy will help me with the sides, or I can just get containers for them. You should go to Pruett’s if you get the chance, but you really want to take someone with you and coordinate on your orders.

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