Aux Trois Cochons, Lyons, France

After our epic lunch at Le Laurencin, Nancy and I ventured south toward the confluence of the Rhône and Saône to see an exhibition of photographs by Steve McCurry at La Sucrière, a former Chamber of Commerce building in an industrial area, with a couple of watering hoes nearby.  You’ll remember McCurry’s haunting photograph of a young green-eyed girl in Afghanistan that graced the cover … Continue reading Aux Trois Cochons, Lyons, France

Le Laurencin, Lyons, France

Lyon, not Paris, is recognized as the food capital of France, some say of the world, which I guess is the same thing in many eyes.  Lyon’s elevated status is personified by Paul Bocuse, whose L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges has held three Michelin stars every year since 1965; and Bocuse’s acolytes have spread top quality cuisine across the city.  Although Bocuse is known as the … Continue reading Le Laurencin, Lyons, France

33 Cité, Lyons, France

After sending Debbie McMullen off, Nancy and I hopped on a train to Lyon.  We spent the night in a very nice hotel (a Marriott) on the Rhone on the north side of Lyon, near the Museum of Contemporary Art.  It’s part of a newish mixed use development in the northern end of the city. The concierge suggested a riverside restaurant focusing on  Lyonnaise cuisine, Terrasse … Continue reading 33 Cité, Lyons, France

Where to Eat Near the Grand Palais and the Petit Palais: Le Minipalais, Paris, France

These two exhibition halls are right across Avenue Winston Churchill from each other at the foot of the Champs Elysee.  We seem to see an exhibit at one or both on every trip to Paris.  This time, we saw two: Rouge, about art and culture after the Russian Revolution, and La Luna, about the 1969 moon landing.  The latter was all the more fitting, as … Continue reading Where to Eat Near the Grand Palais and the Petit Palais: Le Minipalais, Paris, France

Jouvence, Paris, France

Jouvence is a Michelin Bib Gourmand selection on Rue de Faubourg St. Antoine, just around the corner from L’Ebauchoir.  Bib Gourmand status means that it is a nice restaurant with very good food in pleasant surroundings, but not up to a Michelin star.  That is, you probably can afford it, at lunch anyway.  A quick internet search (e.g., “Bib Gourmand Lyon”) will reveal the Bib … Continue reading Jouvence, Paris, France

La Criée, Neuilly sur Seine, Paris, France

One of the goals Nancy and I had for this Paris trip was to see an exhibition of Impressionist works from the Courtauld Collection.  The exhibition was at the Fondation Louis Vuitton.  The Foundation is plunked down in the Bois de Boulogne in a building that you have to see to believe, as is often the case with Frank Gehry buildings.  Form ignores function. Nancy and … Continue reading La Criée, Neuilly sur Seine, Paris, France

L’Ebauchoir, Paris, France

What do you do for dinner in Paris when you’ve grabbed a quick nap after staying up all night on an airplane?  Well, you head to one of the hot new restaurants in the now-fashionable 11th Arrondisement.  Unless, of course, you’re staying in the not yet fashionable 2d and you’ve already walked 11 mies that day.  You normally would stumble over to one of the … Continue reading L’Ebauchoir, Paris, France

Where to Eat Near the Louvre: Le Fumoir

What do you do when you arrive in Paris early in the morning, having had no sleep the night before?  That’s what happens when you take a late afternoon flight that lands before your normal bedtime. as Nancy and I did.  Here’s what you do: First, drop your bag at your hotel so that you don’t have to drag it around until check-in.  In our … Continue reading Where to Eat Near the Louvre: Le Fumoir

Paris Dining Guide Special Edition: L’Ami Jean (and Le Fumoir)

Our Senior Paris Correspondents, Barbara Somson, Ross Eisenbrey and their daughter Becca, recently returned from Paris with a report.  They are frequent visitors to France, and Becca lived there for a while as a student — a year abroad, I think.  And they know food. They report: Our most exciting meal was at our old standby favorite, L’Ami Jean, where we had what the chef … Continue reading Paris Dining Guide Special Edition: L’Ami Jean (and Le Fumoir)

Chez Downing, Redmond, Washington

A few years ago, Nancy and I went to a cooking school at Casa Gregorio in Castro dei Volsci, a lovely medieval hill town that has been untouched by the last two or three centuries except for the odd bomb or two during World War II, and by the transformation of some houses into the truly lovely Casa Gregorio.  It’s in Lazio, about 50-60 miles from … Continue reading Chez Downing, Redmond, Washington