Historische Wurstkuchl, Regensburg, Germany

After our three nights in Prague and a last morning walk through the Old City, Viking, after obsessively making sure everyone had all their luggage, put us on a bus for a pretty and well narrated ride to Regensburg. There our ship, the Viking Var, awaited us. We boarded and unpacked in time for cocktails and dinner. More about the ship and its food in a separate post. Our attention turned to the Regensburg, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Regensburg, having escaped bombing in World War II, is known for the largest medieval site north of the Alps. On the first morning of our cruise we were divided into groups for a walking tour of the city. One of the first sites, and one that attracted my interest, was the Historische Wurstkuchl, the oldest restaurant in the world.

The building was built as an office for construction of a bridge in 1135. The bridge was completed only 11 years later thanks to a deal with the Devil. At that point, a sausage restaurant opened in the space, and it’s still in business. Then and there I determined to try a sandwich before we left Regensburg.

But first , Regensburg. What a joy, with fascinating shop signs,

an old city hall that incongruously features both a constant steam of weddings, many with the wedding party dressed in dirndls and lederhosen, and a torture museum,

and a lovely, understated cathedral.

At the end of our tour, we returned to the ship for a three-course lunch — four if you count the second bowl of the outstanding soup. Then we strolled back into town for further exploration and an ATM to have cash for tips and WCs. Regensburg is a very special place, endlessly charming and engaging.

At 3:00 pm, I decided the time was right to try the sausage. Even in mid-afternoon, there was a crowd.

Disputing of a seat, I went to the carryout window and watched from my place in line as one woman grilled rank after rank of sausages, and another put them on rolls and served them. Soon it was my turn for a sausage and sauerkraut sandwich.

Hmm. Not a great view.

That doesn’t show much, but then taking a photo with one hand and holding a sausage is not one of my strong points.

At any rate, I can see why they’ve stayed in business for going over 875 years. The sausage had a distinctive and very good flavor, a very light touch closer to an American country sausage than most wursts. Indeed, it was my favorite of the trip. The sauerkraut added a balancing tang, and the roll was excellent. I enjoyed it thoroughly and thought of getting back in line for another, but we instead continued our walk over the old bridge and into a local street festival, then back to the ship for dinner.

Regensburg is a beautiful city well worth a visit, and no visit would be complete without a sausage from the Wurstkuchl, the oldest restaurant in the world. Try one or, if you can find a seat, get a platter.

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