Stan’s Idle Hour, Goodland, Florida

Stan’s, Stan’s Stan’s! Stan’s is a legend. It’s a restaurant and bar like no other.

There’s a big, high bridge over Goodland Bay that’s named after Stan Gover, the creator of Stan’s. It’s a lively place, to say the least, on weekends, and most nights. On Sunday afternoons in particular Stan’s can attract thousands — just take a look of their website. Stan’s calms down on weekdays, and at lunch Stan’s is a relaxed place

with a charming water view.

It’s then that you can discover just how wonderful a restaurant Stan’s is. At the heart of Stan’s is the seafood that comes into Goodland. The town is a working fishing village just a few miles into the mangrove from Marco Island. Day boats go into the mangrove for the freshest stone crabs anywhere, and for delicious fish. The boats come back in and the restaurants in Goodland are right there to buy from their neighbors.

We all — Liza, Michael, Ella, Lily, Nancy, and I — went to Goodand for lunch on a weekday. The Shane Duncan Band, “South Florida’s Ultimate Party Band,” would play that night, but in the calmer lunch hour, someone whose name I didn’t get was playing calmer tunes, and doing it well. Busy as it was, we were able to get a table right on the water, close enough that schools of voracious fish stirred up the waters every time someone threw in a bit of French fry, cracker, lemon, lettuce, or anything else. Ella and Lily loved it.

We got down to the serious business of ordering, and first up was an order of conch fritters. The fritters were excellent, so great in fact that the others ate all but one — the one I ate as soon as they arrived –while I was photographing the view and the interior. I really expected they’d take more time. I did get some of the very good smoked fish dip that we also ordered, but at the cost of not photographing it.

What Ella (7) and Lily (4 and 11/12ths) chose should surprise no one.

I don’t expect they came from local chickens, but let’s pause and discuss the fried food at Stan’s. Someone there really knows how to fry foods. I’m not saying Dear level skills, but far better than you can hope to find in most of the United States. The fried food is essentially grease-free and, except for the kids’ menu, not overloaded with batter. Compared to most places, it’s a marvel. Just look at Liza’s fried grouper sandwich.

The black beans and rice she chose as sides, by the way, were delicious. Michael also ordered some black beans and rice and praised the seasoning.

Nancy chose blackened grouper tacos.

There’s a lot of fish under there. Nancy also commented on the high quality of the tortillas, a pleasant and impressive surprise.

Michael ordered a cheeseburger. Michael loves cheeseburgers, and never goes too long without one.

As you can see, Michael was about to sacrifice part of his bun to the fish.

I, to no one’s surprise, ordered a blackened grouper sandwich with a side of onion rings, not all of which are shown in this photo. (They do wander off.)

My first thought was of the thick slice of raw onion there, enough that it normally might dominate the sandwich. I took a small bite of the onion to see if I should donate some to the fish, but there was no need. The onion was Vidalia-level sweet, the sort of onion you could eat like an apple. That nice big filet of grouper was same-day fresh, and just look at that seasoning. This was a fine sandwich, a superior blend of flavors and textures. I loved it.

A trip to Stan’s on a weekday for a pleasant, peaceful, and delicious waterside meal is a must for a trip to Marco Island. You also need to go on a Sunday afternoon when it’s less a restaurant than a party. It’s a hoot — not so much a culinary experience as a good time with a couple thousand of your best new friends. Go early so you can get a table.

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