One of the things I love about Southern Maryland is the riverside crab houses along the Patuxent and Potomac, places like the Drift Inn (the very first), Fitzie’s, Ray’s Pier, and the Reluctant Navigator. While the unifying factor is the ranks of newsprint and butcher paper covering cafeteria tables yearning to be piled high with steamed crabs, they also offer crab cakes and other super-fresh local seafood, like the sensational rockfish at Stoney’s at Clarke’s Landing. Who did I leave out? I’m sure there are others unknown to me, and I hope you’ll share them with me. I’m eager to try them all.
I did hear about Sandgates from some folks. It’s just down the Patuxent from the Drift Inn, so Nancy and I went early on a Saturday evening. It’s easy to find. Just turn north off Three Notch (MD 235) onto Sandgates Road (MD 472) and keep going until you see it on your left, right on the water.
Like other waterside crab houses, Sandgates is spacious and decorated with local … stuff.
Sandgates was busy with a mix of couples, families with children, and groups of friends. It’s a little noisy, what with all the hammering of crabs, but the noises are cheerful and it’s quiet enough for easy conversation. With occasional cafeteria trays piled high with crabs passing by, it all sets a wonderful atmosphere, cheerful and homey, the perfect setting for Yuengling in a frosted mug.
Nancy started with a cup of crab soup,
while I had an order of jalapeño poppers.
Sandgates doesn’t offer grilled or broiled seafood, so for her entree Nancy ordered steamed shrimp.
Nancy was very pleased with her shrimp — the flavor, the freshness, and the generosity of the serving. She also opined that the slaw was good, and NANcy is demanding of slaws. When I got to my own slaw, I saw that she was spot on.
I ordered a crab cake.
As you can see, that’s one huge crab cake, and an unusual crust. If you take a close look into the interior you’ll see a lot of good crab meat and also a whole lot of filler — thus the crust.
The crabmeat was, of course, delicious, but the filler was bland and just sort of sitting there, interfering with the crab flavor. I added some J.O. (I think it’s J.O.) to perk up the flavor, and I got it up to a flavor very similar to the one I liked so much at Box Hill.
I mentioned the slaw, and the baked potato was a good vehicle for butter — or butter substitute in this case — sour cream, and salt and pepper. The biscuit was excellent. I was surprised to get a biscuit rather than a roll, which is what usually comes with a meal around the Bay. The folks at Sandgates flat know how to bake biscuits, and they’re an attraction in their own right.
I enjoyed Sandgates. It’s such a pleasant place, and I’d like to go back for some soft shells. It’s hard not to like a crab house on the water, and there’s a lot to like here. Don’t get me wrong. There are great places to get steamed crabs and other Southern Maryland seafood specialties off the water, notably our go-to spot, Calvert Crabs and Seafood. But there’s something about being on the water in a setting that captures the history and traditions of the area. Like many old school Southern barbecue places and the green chile cafes in New Mexico, they’re worthy of UNESCO recognition. You should stop by and give them some trade — all of them. You’ll enjoy the setting, the food, and the prices.
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