Where to Eat between Washington, DC, and Broken Arrow, Oklahoma — Now Extended to Gallup, New Mexico

I don’t usually do individual curated lists, but I’m making an exception here. I’ve already made a list of Best Places to Eat near I-95 between Washington and Key West that includes over 50 locally owned restaurants within 15 minutes of the Interstate. I’ve been thinking of doing an I-40 list, and our neighbor, Julie Rokala, who’s from Oklahoma, recently drove her mother, Laura Eddy, from Broken Arrow to Washington to spend some time with the grandchildren. And they made the drive just stopping any old where to eat. Now Ms. Laura is a lovely person. She’s a career educator, and a very special one, a whiz at teaching children. During the extended COVID lockdowns, when most students forgot everything they’d learned before, she did an amazing job keeping Henry and Lilly up to date and advancing via Zoom . And she’s helped Nancy with suggestions to teach our granddaughter, Ella, to read — mainly Seuss and Proust, so far, but these are early days. So she deserves better on the trip home.

Think of this as a step toward a full I-40 list. The places I’ve reviewed are linked in red. If a restaurant isn’t linked, it’s probably because I haven’t been there yet, but I have good authority that it’s a good place to eat.

Note: Be sure to check restaurant websites to make sure they’ll be open.

There are two main routes, each presenting opportunities.

OPTION 1

My sometimes trusty map app says that the fastest route is out I-66 to I-81 and then west on I-40 forever. That allows you to avoid I-95.

Virginia

One Day 1, proceed out I-66 against traffic until you hit I-81. There you face your first hard choice: a short detour north to Shaffer’s in lovely Middletown, or south on 81 to your second choice, Smokin'”” Jarhead (sic) in Woodstock or Bean’s BBQ in Edinburg. A key factor in your decision will be whether to have ribs and get your hands all messy at Smokin’ Jarhead, or a non-messy pork sandwich at Bean’s. Or try both. I’d go with Bean’s.

Tennessee

The it’s a straight shot south on 81, and a good night’s rest in Bristol. We’ve always eaten at 620 State in Bristol on the Tennessee side of State Street. (The north side of State is in Virginia and dry.). Next time, though, I’ll probably try Delta Blues BBQ, and I’d appreciate it if you could go there and send me a few pictures and notes about the food. Thanks.

On Day 2, continue south and catch I-40 West above Knoxville. In Knoxville, you can stop at Sweet P’s Downtown Dive and get some of their pimiento cheese dip, but leave some room. Before long you’ll come to Crossville where you must stop at Buc-ee’s. Always stop at a Buc-ee’s. It’s an experience. I’ve only been in one, and I’d just eaten, but the Barbecue Bros tell me that the brisket is good, and there are lots of cult favorites at Buc-ees.

Then on to Nashville for an evening of dinner at Jack Cawthon’s or a nice non-barbecue at The Tavern, followed by some music on Lower Broadway if it’s not overrun by bachelorette parties, and then a well-deserved rest to prepare for a day of great food.

On Day 3, the essential first stop, of course, is the Loveless Cafe for their biscuits and preserves and whatever else you want. The country ham is very good. Then wander around until Ramey’s Whole Hog Barbecue opens in Parsons, just south of the interstate. Grab a truly great barbecue sandwich and chat with the folks there for a while. Say “Hi” for me. After Ramey’s, continue west to Brownsville and Helen’s. Then on to Memphis and Payne’s, if it’s open. If it’s not, go to the Cozy Corner and, if you would, please take some pictures and give me a report. Have a good night’s sleep at the Peabody and maybe a rib at the Rendezvous.

Arkansas

On Day 4. cross the Mississippi and take a detour a few miles south to Marianna and Jones Bar-B-Q Diner, which is back in business after the fire. I haven’t been there, but it’s one of the places that has intruded on the attention even of the James Beard Foundation. Then back to I-40 and continue to Little Rock and Sim’s, and/or Kibb’s in North Little Rock. Then on to Broken Arrow. Let me know of any stops you make along the way.

Oklahoma

Once you get to Oklahoma City, head to Edge Craft Barbecue just north of 40 before I-64 — John Evans and Daniel Vaughn both peak highly of it — and you must go to the Cattlemen’s Steakhouse, a true classic and one of the great US steakhouses. It’s in the Stockyards area just south of I-40, and it’s open from breakfast through dinner.

Texas

As you enter Texas, you come to the town of Shamrock, home of the Tower Station and U-Drop Inn Cafe, an architectural marvel from the heydays of Route 66. Read about it here. It’s now run by the National Park Service, which makes me hesitant to talk about the food, but it’s well worth a stop and the daly specials look good.

For Amarillo, Daniel Vaughn tells me that Tyler’s BBQ has the best barbecue in town, or you can head to Dyer’s for the ribs, onion rings, and apricot preserves. Or you can go on a few miles past Stanley Marsh’s Cadillac Ranch on the south side of I-40 (keep your eyes peeled) and stop at the Vega Truck Stop and Indian Kitchen for home cooked Punjabi and other Indian dishes. This may be the most. healthful food on I-40.

New Mexico

The best pace to eat in Grants is La Ventana Steakhouse, named after the rainbow arch of that name a few miles away huge natural arch, with good New Mexican food in addition to steaks.

In Gallup, the gateway to the Navajo Nation, Genaro’s serves outstanding New Mexican food. Those with sensitive palates will want to ask for the green Chile on the side.

OPTION 2

The second alternative is via I-95 to I-85 to I-40. The I-95 portion is covered in my Washington to Key West post here. The first stop once you’re on 85 is a slight detour down the the Clubhouse Grille in Lawrenceville, Virginia. Stop there for a cup of Brunswick Stew. This is just a snack to tide you over for a latish lunch. You hit I-40 just after Durham (if you’re real hungry, despite the snack in Lawrenceville, stop at Picnic). But you really want to drive on because you come to a great stretch that is one of the glories of the I-40 corridor.

You could stop at Dickie-Do’s in Haw River, just north of I-40, for some of their very smoky pork, or Hursey’s in Burlington (the Church Street location only), or the Smokehouse at Steve’s in Graham, or go on to Greensboro and a legendary name, Stamey’s. Then comes Clark’s in Kernersville followed by Real Q in Winston-Salem. They’re all excellent, but my favorite is Clark’s. Their barbecue is excellent, they have lots of outstanding vegetables, and their hushpuppies are doughnut-shaped. Life is too short to pass up oddly shaped hushpuppies.

(Personally, I would take another day and detour south to Lincolnton and the Bar-B-Q King, and then west on 150 to Red Bridges Barbecue Lodge in Shelby, but you’ll probably want to stay on I-40 to Asheville.). In that case, you might want to stop at Countryside in Marion, or just push on to Asheville. There, Buxton Hall is highly regarded, but the pit master, Elliot Moss, just left, so I’d exercise caution. You’ll probably be ready for a shift to a nice non-barbecue place, maybe something light, like Jettie Ray’s Oyster House.

Get up early for a visit to Biscuit Head, and then on to Knoxville, where you can connect with the I-66 to 81 to 40 list.

I welcome comments and suggestions, so long as they avoid naughty language. I especially welcome suggestions of good local o=places near I-40 beyond Little Rock. Meanwhile, drive safely and eat well.

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